The month of May in France is like a freshly baked croissant: warm, inviting, and full of surprises. It’s the unofficial kickoff to summer, with blooming fields and a sun that lingers just a bit longer. But what truly makes May special for the French is the parade of national holidays, traditions, and clever tricks to snag extra days off. Let’s dive into this festive chaos, starting with the fragrant lilies of the valley!
May 1: Lilies of the Valley and Labor Day
On May 1, the French spring bursts into life with Labor Day, a day not just for union songs and demonstrations but also for a charming tradition: gifting muguet, or lilies of the valley. Across France, stalls pop up along roadsides, selling these delicate white flowers (under strict rules, because the French love order in their romance). It’s a gesture of luck and appreciation, given to friends, family, or that one neighbor who always accepts your packages.
But where does this tradition come from? Let’s take a trip through history! In ancient Rome, the blooming of nature was celebrated in late April, and the Celts marked the transition to the light season with their festival Beltaine. The lily-of-the-valley tradition gets a royal twist in 1560, when King Charles IX, during a visit to the Dauphiné, was gifted a sprig of muguet. He was so charmed that he decided to present court ladies with these flowers every spring. Is the story true? Historians debate, but it’s a good tale, isn’t it? Author Jean Teulé brought it to life in his 2011 novel Charly 9.
During the French Revolution, the muguet was briefly sidelined for the red rose hip, a flower that became a symbol of the labor movement on May 1, 1889. This red flower, especially popular in northern France, took on a bloody significance after the Fourmies tragedy in 1891, where nine protesters were killed during a demonstration. Yet, the lily of the valley made a comeback by the late 19th century, partly thanks to Félix Mayol, a singer who wore a sprig on his lapel during a successful 1895 performance. He later wrote in his memoirs that this moment helped revive the tradition.
Major couturiers like Christian Dior embraced the flower, which even became the emblem of his fashion house. But it was Marshal Pétain who, in 1941 under the Vichy regime, officially tied the muguet to May 1, favoring the white flower over the “too leftist” red rose hip. A controversial legacy, but the French have since embraced the muguet wholeheartedly.
May: the month of ‘ponts’ and clever days off
Beyond May 1, the month is packed with holidays that the French eagerly use to optimize their schedules. On May 8, they celebrate Victory Day, a moment of remembrance and pride. Ascension Day (May 29 in 2025) offers another chance for a long weekend. And then there are the infamous ponts – literally “bridges” – where the French combine a holiday with a weekend for a mini-vacation. Take a holiday on a Thursday, for example: with one day off on Friday, you’ve got a four-day weekend. Clever, right?
These ponts turn May into a national sport of planning getaways. Businesses run at half speed, as half of France seems to be lounging on the beach or “coincidentally” catching a flu that pairs suspiciously well with sea air. And while they relax, the French are already scheming their next move: the big summer vacation. As soon as July rolls around, packing begins for August, the month when France collectively pulls the plug.
Why May is so French
May isn’t just a month; it’s a celebration of the French zest for life. It blends deep-rooted traditions like the muguet with an almost artistic dedication to leisure. It’s the month when the French show off their inner romantic, rebel, and planner all at once. So, if you call a Frenchman in May and no one picks up, don’t worry: they’re probably gifting a lily, building a pont, or already dreaming of the Côte d’Azur.
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